Return to the Maldives
By Maite Newell, General Manager, National Travel Group
It had been eighteen years since I last set foot in the Maldives. Long enough that I remembered the colour of the water more clearly than the details of getting there, and long enough that I wondered, honestly, whether the country I had loved would still feel like the country I had loved.
The answer, I discovered over ten days in May, is yes — but a wiser, more confident, more thoughtfully designed version of itself. And I have three very different resorts, one dramatic new airport, and rather more seaplane views than I ever expected to enjoy, to thank for that answer.
Here is what I learned.
The Arrival, and the Seaplane Confession
Malé Airport is not the airport I remember. The new terminal, opened only recently, is calm, spacious and beautifully run — a proper twenty-first century arrival experience. The transit to the seaplane terminal is now seamless: air-conditioned lounges, staff who know exactly what to do, and none of the chaos I braced myself for.
Which brings me to the confession.
I was nervous about the seaplanes. Really nervous. The small planes, the ocean landings, the noise — it all sat somewhere between adventurous and alarming in my imagination, and for the first flight I remember gripping the seat.
“Twenty minutes later I was in love. Once you settle in — and it takes less time than you’d think — the seaplane becomes one of the great pleasures of a Maldives holiday.”
You are flying low across an ocean the colour of stained glass, past atolls that look like coins scattered on velvet. If you have ever wondered why the Maldives has captured the world’s imagination, ten minutes above it will answer you.
If seaplanes truly aren’t for you, some of the closer resorts can now be reached by speedboat — Kuda Villingili, which I’ll come to shortly, is one of them. But my strong encouragement is: give the seaplane a chance. You may surprise yourself.
LUX* South Ari Atoll
Our first stop was LUX* South Ari Atoll, reached by seaplane in about half an hour from Malé.
LUX* has always positioned itself as slightly less formal than some of its five-star neighbours, and that easy, unshoed spirit is very much alive here. The resort offers both beach villas and overwater villas, so families and couples can choose the setting that suits them, and the range of restaurants means you’re never eating the same thing twice. Genuinely.
A small confession: I judge a resort partly by its coffee. And LUX* took my breath away. The barista at the main coffee bar is the sort of person you find yourself returning to twice a day — a proper coffee culture, taken seriously in a country where you might not expect it.
Who I’d recommend it for: families, and travellers who want luxury without stiffness. It’s a place where you can wander in from the beach in a linen shirt and still feel entirely welcome for dinner.
Kuda Villingili
Kuda Villingili was our second stop, and it feels distinctly different from LUX*. This is a resort that has embraced polished, precision luxury — beautifully appointed rooms, and the beach villa in which we stayed was gorgeous — and it delivers on every promise.
The butler service is one of the things that stood out most. Every villa is assigned a butler, and they arrive by buggy at almost any hour of the day to help with whatever you need — a booking, a snorkelling excursion, a bottle of chilled water to your sun lounger. It is the kind of quiet, generous service that makes a holiday feel effortless.
Two things Kuda Villingili offers that others don’t:
— Chickens surf break. For Australian travellers, this is a genuine drawcard. One of the Maldives’ most famous surf breaks sits right at the resort’s doorstep. You do not need to be a professional surfer to enjoy it — but you do need to bring the fins if you are.
— Boat transfers. As I mentioned, Kuda Villingili is one of the resorts close enough to Malé to be reached by speedboat rather than seaplane. For anyone who genuinely doesn’t want to fly a second time, this is a real gift.
The lagoon snorkelling is also exceptional — you can wade in from the beach and find a whole world within minutes.
For families travelling in numbers, Kuda Villingili also offers two- and three-bedroom residences — a genuine solution for multi-generational trips, where grandparents, parents and grandchildren all want their own space without losing the shared holiday. And when the mood calls for movement rather than lounging, the resort has both tennis and pickleball courts — a small but lovely detail for anyone who likes a morning game before the heat of the day.
Who I’d recommend it for: couples wanting polished luxury, multi-generational families needing room to spread out, Australians who cannot resist a legendary surf break, and anyone who wants the Maldives without the seaplane leg.
Six Senses Kanuhura
Now I must be honest with you: Six Senses Kanuhura was my favourite of the three.
Six Senses has built a global reputation for wellness done with soul rather than spectacle, and Kanuhura is the Maldives expression of that philosophy. From the moment you arrive — seaplane, again, and beautifully — you are gently invited to slip your shoes off. Barefoot is not a gimmick here. It is a design choice about grounding, about slowing down, about the way your body actually connects with the earth (or in this case, the softest sand you have ever felt).
The villas are gorgeous in that lived-in, coastal way — nothing over-designed, everything considered. For larger family groups, Kanuhura also has two- and three-bedroom residences, which are ideal for multi-generational travel: every generation gets their own space, but the shared meals, sunsets and evenings together are what make the trip. The food is a proper highlight: Spanish tapas at one of the restaurants, and a breakfast so generous and so beautifully sourced that I found myself planning the next day around it.
“But the moment that stayed with me was in the water. On one dip we swam with nurse sharks — huge, gentle, entirely unbothered by our presence. It is the sort of experience you don’t forget.”
Who I’d recommend it for: couples, and multi-generational families who want the wellness dimension — spa, movement, considered food, real quiet. If you have been telling yourself for a while that you need a proper reset, Kanuhura is where I would send you.
How to Choose the Right Resort
Three resorts, three different personalities. My simple guide:
— Choose LUX* South Ari Atoll if... you want relaxed, informal luxury with plenty of dining choice, and you’re travelling with family.
— Choose Kuda Villingili if... you want polished, precision luxury with exceptional service, a hesitation about the seaplane, a multi-generational group needing residences, or a surfer in the group.
— Choose Six Senses Kanuhura if... wellness, quiet and a sense of retreat matter most to you — or if a multi-generational group is looking for a truly considered escape together.
There is no wrong answer here. All three deliver an extraordinary Maldives experience. The right one depends on what you’re looking to bring home with you.
Exclusive Inclusions Through National Travel
Because of our relationships with these three properties, National Travel guests receive exclusive inclusions you cannot get by booking direct:
— Six Senses Kanuhura — complimentary lunch at Drift on one day of your stay.
— Kuda Villingili — a complimentary turtle excursion included in your stay.
— LUX* South Ari Atoll — a complimentary sunset cruise during your stay.
These small extras add real value to an already extraordinary trip — and they are our way of ensuring that when you book with us, you get more than you would anywhere else.
A Final Thought
Eighteen years is a long time to be away from somewhere you love. But if returning to the Maldives has taught me anything, it is that some destinations wait for you patiently — and grow, in the years apart, in ways that reward the wait.
If you have been dreaming of the Maldives, or thinking of returning to it, I would be delighted to help you plan a journey that suits exactly who you are and how you want to travel. Reach out to our travel advisors — we know these islands, we know these resorts, and we would love to help you find your own version of paradise.
Warmly,
Maite Newell
General Manager, National Travel Group